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초록· 키워드
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Costume is a fundamental factor to human basic needs and represents national identity well. Also, the difference of costume represented national identity and played a crucial role in heighten affinity between nations among many others widely distributed on the vast Asian continent.
Direct data of costumes appears from A.D.6 due to the fact that costume is hard to be found as direct relic materials created of fiber, unlike pottery and artifacts. Fortunately, relics of A.D.1 were found in Mongolian Noin-ulaand allowed us to find out original form of Korean costume of ancient time, which is equal to Chinese garment; it is worth focusing on the fact that excavated shirts and trousers are similar to costumes on murals of Koguryo ancient tombs, and there is no significant difference in trousers compared to Shoso-in of Japan or Korean traditional clothing, also means literally "Korean dress" that Koreans have worn through the ages. Hanbok trousers Koreans wear today. These relics of Noin-ula, which are cultural assets of the Huns in A.D.1, are a typical form of Altai costumes of eastern Asia at that time, and can be considered a criteria to study Koguryocostumes since they are the oldest trousers that can be studied by bare eyes today and costume of the People of Baji and jeogori.
Last 30 volumes of historical document 『三國志』 recording the historical events of three kingdom era of China Dongijeon(東夷傳)of the ancient history which is Chinese authentic history is the fundamental documentary data to study Korean costumes, and costumes of the Huns from Noin-ula, ancient tomb murals of Koguryo, excavation reports of ancient tombs, and relics of Haniwa(直輪) and a main storehouse of important relics of Japanese royal heritage jungchangwon(正倉院) of Japan is considered important costume information.
Ancient tomb murals of Koguryo Kingdom(37 B.C.-668 A.D.) are precious data in studying human basic needs of the ancient time since it allows to see various and colorfulforms of social members at that time, and especially even more precious since actual costume relics are not found in studying costume history of Korean ancient history. The ancient tombs of Koguryo excavated until now can be divided into three period according to the contents and structures of the tombs. The first period is from the end of A.D.3 to the beginning of A.D.5, second period is from mid A.D.5 to the beginning of A.D.6, and third period is mainly constituted of an Eastern belief in four gods protecting each azimuth; white tiger for West, blue dragon for East, hyunmu for North which shaped into a snake and turtle, and phoenix for South.
Sasin(四神) from mid A.D.6 to mid A.D.7.
The regional characteristics according to the location of ancient tombs are reflected on the tombs; characters from Gakjeochong and Muyongchongmurals generally have long and slim faces, but on the other hand, Pyeongyang and Anakdescribe characters with round and wide face, which provides a question to whether this difference is due to actual difference nations or in art of drawing. Moreover, the characteristics of ancient art decides on the size of the character according to his class or importance rather than today's realistic expressing method of characters like law of perspective. Therefore, the main character is painted larger than the surrounding members. Also, this method is applied in drawing the environment or allocation of characters and animals, and in some cases, expressions or movements are drawn simply, or sometimes in asymmetry and disharmony.
In these murals, the basic feature of Korean costume from this period is that the male and female versions are no distinction, each comprising an upper and a lower garment. Korean ancient people wore basically jeogori with narrow sleeves as an upper garment and wore narrow trousers in the style of northern Hobok costums. Goonggo(窮袴) with closed Mitbadae is in the form of basic trousers of mounted nomads according to the portraits from ancient tomb murals of Koguryo men and women both worse trousers, and the Korean costume is found out to be originated on northern Hobok costume, which is certainly different from the style of Chinese.
Korean costume originates on northern Scythian costumes of mounted nomads based on trousers and jeogori the ancient people wore Jangpoaround the waist for courtesy and protection against the cold, kwanmo(冠帽, Korean traditional official hat) on the head, and used ri (履) of the south and hwa (靴)of the north in joint as shoes. The original form of Korean costume uses southern and northern costume in joint, and this is not only due to seasonal factors, but also distinctive characteristics of caste society, which puts difference in pattern and forms of costumes; the costume differs according to roles of the class and positions.
In the Korean of today, the women's hanbok consists of Jeogori and Chima, the men's of Jeogori and Baji, bothwith an optional durumagi (overcoat or gown) for added formality, especially for men. Geogori such as upper garment of men and women are still similar in shape, but differ in length and color scheme. The costumes drawn on ancient tomb murals of Koguryo isan important code that represents Korea and the Hans from the United Three Kingdoms to Koguryo, Chosun, that continued on as a basic type of Korean costume that settled as Hanbok in today's era. Also, diverse foreign culture and the procedure of acceptingthem during cultural exchange with Korean for a long period time repeat change and re-creation of new costume culture to make today's Korean costume culture.
Direct data of costumes appears from A.D.6 due to the fact that costume is hard to be found as direct relic materials created of fiber, unlike pottery and artifacts. Fortunately, relics of A.D.1 were found in Mongolian Noin-ulaand allowed us to find out original form of Korean costume of ancient time, which is equal to Chinese garment; it is worth focusing on the fact that excavated shirts and trousers are similar to costumes on murals of Koguryo ancient tombs, and there is no significant difference in trousers compared to Shoso-in of Japan or Korean traditional clothing, also means literally "Korean dress" that Koreans have worn through the ages. Hanbok trousers Koreans wear today. These relics of Noin-ula, which are cultural assets of the Huns in A.D.1, are a typical form of Altai costumes of eastern Asia at that time, and can be considered a criteria to study Koguryocostumes since they are the oldest trousers that can be studied by bare eyes today and costume of the People of Baji and jeogori.
Last 30 volumes of historical document 『三國志』 recording the historical events of three kingdom era of China Dongijeon(東夷傳)of the ancient history which is Chinese authentic history is the fundamental documentary data to study Korean costumes, and costumes of the Huns from Noin-ula, ancient tomb murals of Koguryo, excavation reports of ancient tombs, and relics of Haniwa(直輪) and a main storehouse of important relics of Japanese royal heritage jungchangwon(正倉院) of Japan is considered important costume information.
Ancient tomb murals of Koguryo Kingdom(37 B.C.-668 A.D.) are precious data in studying human basic needs of the ancient time since it allows to see various and colorfulforms of social members at that time, and especially even more precious since actual costume relics are not found in studying costume history of Korean ancient history. The ancient tombs of Koguryo excavated until now can be divided into three period according to the contents and structures of the tombs. The first period is from the end of A.D.3 to the beginning of A.D.5, second period is from mid A.D.5 to the beginning of A.D.6, and third period is mainly constituted of an Eastern belief in four gods protecting each azimuth; white tiger for West, blue dragon for East, hyunmu for North which shaped into a snake and turtle, and phoenix for South.
Sasin(四神) from mid A.D.6 to mid A.D.7.
The regional characteristics according to the location of ancient tombs are reflected on the tombs; characters from Gakjeochong and Muyongchongmurals generally have long and slim faces, but on the other hand, Pyeongyang and Anakdescribe characters with round and wide face, which provides a question to whether this difference is due to actual difference nations or in art of drawing. Moreover, the characteristics of ancient art decides on the size of the character according to his class or importance rather than today's realistic expressing method of characters like law of perspective. Therefore, the main character is painted larger than the surrounding members. Also, this method is applied in drawing the environment or allocation of characters and animals, and in some cases, expressions or movements are drawn simply, or sometimes in asymmetry and disharmony.
In these murals, the basic feature of Korean costume from this period is that the male and female versions are no distinction, each comprising an upper and a lower garment. Korean ancient people wore basically jeogori with narrow sleeves as an upper garment and wore narrow trousers in the style of northern Hobok costums. Goonggo(窮袴) with closed Mitbadae is in the form of basic trousers of mounted nomads according to the portraits from ancient tomb murals of Koguryo men and women both worse trousers, and the Korean costume is found out to be originated on northern Hobok costume, which is certainly different from the style of Chinese.
Korean costume originates on northern Scythian costumes of mounted nomads based on trousers and jeogori the ancient people wore Jangpoaround the waist for courtesy and protection against the cold, kwanmo(冠帽, Korean traditional official hat) on the head, and used ri (履) of the south and hwa (靴)of the north in joint as shoes. The original form of Korean costume uses southern and northern costume in joint, and this is not only due to seasonal factors, but also distinctive characteristics of caste society, which puts difference in pattern and forms of costumes; the costume differs according to roles of the class and positions.
In the Korean of today, the women's hanbok consists of Jeogori and Chima, the men's of Jeogori and Baji, bothwith an optional durumagi (overcoat or gown) for added formality, especially for men. Geogori such as upper garment of men and women are still similar in shape, but differ in length and color scheme. The costumes drawn on ancient tomb murals of Koguryo isan important code that represents Korea and the Hans from the United Three Kingdoms to Koguryo, Chosun, that continued on as a basic type of Korean costume that settled as Hanbok in today's era. Also, diverse foreign culture and the procedure of acceptingthem during cultural exchange with Korean for a long period time repeat change and re-creation of new costume culture to make today's Korean costume culture.
목차
Ⅰ. 서언
Ⅱ. 고구려 고분 벽화의 의미와 내용
Ⅲ. 주요 고구려 고분 벽화의 복식
Ⅳ. 고분 벽화에 나타난 한국 복식
Ⅴ. 결어
참고문헌
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