In this study, women’s Jeogori kinds clothing which were excavated in the tombs from the Joseon dynasty era were analyzed based on chronological periods historically separated by Imjin War, a turning point dividing the Joseon dynasty era into the first half (A.D 15-16C) and the second half (A.D 17-18C mid). Kit and Mu in women’s Jeogori kinds (JeoksamㆍHansam, Jeogori and JangjeogorㆍDang-ui) were categorized into following types and kinds based on existing excavation reports and literature articles regarding excavated clothing to learn chronological changes in the Kit and Mu according to the shape and position change. Total 166 items of consisting of JeoksamㆍHansam, 37 items, Jeogori 55 items of JangjeogoriㆍDang-ui 74 items excavated in 20 tombs from the first half of Joseon perio, Total 219 items of Jeogori kinds of JeoksamㆍHansam, 37 items, of Jeogori 166 items and JangjeogoriㆍDang-ui excavated in 20 tombs from the second half of the Joseon period.
These total 385 items of Jeogori clothing were categorized into following seven kinds and named in this study regarding analysis on changes and developments of shapes and locations of outer-Kit and inner-Kit of the Jeogori items.
Balanced Mokpan Kit, Unbalanced in-hanged Mokpan Kit, Ing Mokpan Kit, Unbalanced out-hanged Mokpan Kit, Kal Kit, Mokpan Dangko Kit and Dangko Kit. These senven types were categorized again into more detailed types based on locations in which the outer Kit and inner Kit were attached. Balanced Mokpan Kit (type 1 and 2), Unbalanced in-hanged Mokpan Kit (type 3 and 4), Ing Mokpan Kit (type 5, 6, 7), Unbalanced out-hanged Mokpan Kit (type 8 and 9), Kal Kit (type 10, 11, 12 and 13), Mokpan-dangko Kit (typo 14, 15 and 16) and Dangko Kit (type 17). The most frequently found kinds of Kit were as follows. Balanced Mokpan Kit in JeoksamㆍHansam items,
Ing Mokpan Kit in Jeogori items. Unbalanced out-hanged Mokpan Kit in JangjeogoriㆍDang-ui items. Also, type 8 was most frequently observed type of Kit in the whole group of Jeogori kinds. A unique characteristic observed in the Kit of Jeogori items was that there were 2 aspects in the changes; a development from the Balanced Mokpan Kit without developing Ing Mokpan Kit and the other progress from the Balanced Mokpan Kit through Ing Mokpan Kit so that the directivity of the developments was found as a result of the analysis. Assumptions on the times of appearance of Jeogori Kit kinds seemed as follows. 15C for Balance Kit(type 1 and 2), early 16C for Unbalanced in-hanged Mokpan Kit(type 3 and 4), Early and middle 16C for Ing Mokpan Kit, Middle 16C for Unbalance dout-hanged Mokpan Kit (type 8 and 9),
Late 16C for Kal Kit, Early 17C for Mokpan-dangko Kit and
Early 18C for Dangko Kit. 10 types (type 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10) of Kit were from the first half of the Joseon period and 7 types (type 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17) of Kit were observed from the second half of the period. Judging from the observation, the Kit was found to be an important element when estimating which period specific relics were from.
Numbers of Mu were categorized into Muless(type 0), one sheet (type 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5), two sheets (type 6, 7, 8 and 9) and three sheets (type 10) of Mu. In the first half of the Joseon period, 10 types (type 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9 and 10) were found except for one type (type 8) Mu. In the second half of the Joseon period, nine types were found except for two types (type 1 and 10) of Mu. In the first half of the Joseon period, most of the types of Mu were found, so it is more difficult to distinguish the
times they appeared than those of the types of Kit. Moreover, in the second half of the Joseon period, Mu disappeared and presumably has been developed as Gyetmagi in Samhoejang-jeogori, which can be found nowadays. According to a theory which claims Dang-ui varied from side-slit Jangjeogori, 66 items of Jangjeogori were regarded being developed from Dang-ui. On the other hand, according to a theory which claims Jangjeogori was a Dang-ui with long-sleeved Geodlji lining on a high quality fabric, three Jangjeogori items were considered as Dang-ui. Also, as records on Dang-ui had existed since Gwanghae-gun (the 15th king of the Joseon dynasty) in the second half of the Joseon period, Dang-jeogori had been developed to Dang-ui.
Specifically, type 3 Mu related with type 8 Kit and type 0 Mu related with type 16 Kit were most frequently found in the relics. these can be a characteristic of a clothing culture in the Joseon period. Four types (type 1, 2, 3 and 4) of Kit were found only in the relics from the first half of the Joseon period, 6 types (type 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10) of Kit were found throughout the first and the second half of the Joseon period and seven types (type 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17) of Kit were observed only in the clothing from the second half of the Joseon period. There were 11 types of Mu. Two types (type 1, 10) of them were found only in the Jeogori kinds from the first half of the Joseon period, eight types (type 0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 9) of Mu were found throughout the first and the second half of the period and one type (type 8) of Mu were observed only in the second half of the Joseon period.
Based on the above analysis, types of Mu related with Kit were
categorized into 79 types, 41 types (for the first half of the Joseon period) and 38 types (for the second half of the Joseon period). Among these types, 29 types were found only in the first half of the Joseon period, 12 types were found throughout the first and the second half of the Joseon era, 26 types were observed only in the second half of the Joseon period (total 67 types). Having summarized the analysis of the Kit and Mu, 35 types of Kit and Mu in each tomb were found and/or not found due to development in Kit and Mu. Assuming that the buried person had been active for 20-30 years, more accurate estimation was possible based on the year the person died.
Hopefully this specific and detailed study focusing on analyzing outer Kit and inner Kit and categorizing those Kits together with the Mus of the women’s Jeogori kinds excavated in the tombs of the Joseon dynasty period will be used for peers of next generations to understand and promote Hanbok and the Kit and Mu, which have changed for several hundred years, will be used to design modern women’s clothes.