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학제간연구 과학기술학 뇌인지과학 기술정책 기타 복합학

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논문 기본 정보

자료유형
학술저널
저자정보
저널정보
한국복식학회 복식 복식 제24권
발행연도
1995.5
수록면
121 - 142 (22page)

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The Expressionism took shape in the early twentieth century, so called as the time of change and innovation which intermediated between the time of extreme prosperity and peace and the time of disruption. This study is based on the wide sense of Expressionism out of various concepts of Expressionism. The afore-mentioned phenomenon was emphasized all the more in the French Expressionism and it is the most important and substantial object in the Art to make a direct transference of emotion, feeling and thought and it could be regarded as one of characteristics of the French Expressionism. In Addition, the Expressionism produced "Aesthetics on Ugliness(Asthegik des H lichen)" in creating work of art. It was an expression of the Existentialism based on Humanism for modern people who lived at time of nihility and such artistic movement accepted polarity and ambivalance concepts claimed by Nietazsche into three specific fields in accordance with thought and technique in the work of art and those are the Intuitional Expressionism, Cubistic Expressionism and Fantastic Expressionism. This study makes a close analysis of costume style trends on the basis of the categorized Expressionism enumerated as above. The caracteristics of Intuitional Expressionism is that poverty and a sense of alienation dominated all society and thus the social reality brought a trend of social participation. This social reality effected significantly modern costume style and a reformative costume turned up at last. This reformative costume was classified into Gar onne look, Military look and Lingerie look by characteristics of style in order to make a close examination for the relationship between social reality and the reformative structure. Cubistic Expressionism effected costume forming and changed costume style through"Deformation" and "Distortion" in forming technique, and also it has developed geometrical style of costume, which could be symbolized by emchanism. And on the othe hand, this Cubistic Expression has emphasized exaggerated expression ability to produce rigid and stiff style of costume. Fantastic Expressionism pursued basic artistic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs and accepted fantastic oriental Exoticism. This Fantastic Expressionism effected costume style of twentieth century and such designers as Lon Bakst, Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiaparelli adopted intensive primary color. It also applied "Depaysment" to modern costume style, which introduced avant-garde design to give an impact through destruction of the existing traditional concepts. This study also analized seven major representative costume disigners of the early twentieth century. They are L on Bakst, Paul Poiret, Madeline Vionnet, Jean Patou, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed creative costume design work with peculiar expression technique based on the French Expressionism. The costume study related to art history was so far made mostly to approach costume forming but only a few study is found to have approached idealistic background of art history in connection with creating costume. From that point of view, it is profoundly significant for this sutdy to analize idealistic background and characteristics of Expressionism and relationship between costume and Expressionism and to examine modern costume of twentieth century in conjunction with technical characteristics and spiritual sense of Expressionism.

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