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자연과학 일반 물리학 생물학 생활과학 수학·통계학 천문학 지구과학 화학 기타 자연과학
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공학 일반 건축공학 기계공학 산업공학 재료·에너지공학 전기전자공학 조선해양공학 화학공학 컴퓨터학 기타공학
의약학
의학 일반 간호학 수의학 약학 한의학 기초의학 임상의학 기타 의약학
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복합학
학제간연구 과학기술학 뇌인지과학 기술정책 기타 복합학

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논문 기본 정보

자료유형
학술저널
저자정보
저널정보
한국복식학회 복식 복식 제26권
발행연도
1995.11
수록면
175 - 207 (33page)

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초록· 키워드

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The costume culture of China is as old and varied as her long history. As China is a multiracial nation and consists of fifty-six minority races including Han race, there are not only fifty-six different costumes in China but each races` costume habit is very different. Therefore, Chinese pennisula can be considered an enormous exhibition center of the costumes. This study undertook on the assumption that the costumes` mainstream of Korea and east-northern Asia as well as that of China could be examined by investigating the minority races` costumes in the east-and west-northern areas of China. The process of evolution of the costume of a particular people, country or area is subject not oniy to constraints related to geography such as climate, topography or local products but is also affected by numorous environmental influences including cultural, economic, social and even political ones in terms of the selection of material, styling, colors and standard of tailoring. In other words, things like philosophy of life, religious belief, aesthetic outlook, moral code, class system, degree of affluence, and cultural exchange will all be reflected directly or indirectly by features of a people`s country`s style of costume. Of course, there are several factors affecting to the style of costume of the minority peoples in China. However, the only three factors-geo-graphical and environmental, production method, and religious belef-will be touched in this study. First of all, the geograghical and eenvironmental factor would be the decisive one because the costume should be designed to overcome the constraints of climate and geographical environments, Accordingly, each race has an unique style of costume, The costume of the minority races in the northern parts are loose and wide, and made of warm furs. For instance, Mongolian robe has the quality of anti-wind, anti-cold and warmness, and the width of s sleeve is narrow and long. Secondly, the costume style can be said to be limited by the production pattern, when the geographical environment was affected to decide the costume style, the production pattern was together affected to it. In case of Mongolian robe, they should satisfy the dual condition as the practical function. One is the condition that they should be fitted to the climate, and the other is the condition that they should be suitable to the nomadic life. Mongolian robes are suitable to the nomadic peoples because they are designed for not only overcoming the cold wind and weather but being used as the bedquilt at night. The costumes of Hoche people was made of the skin of the fish and wild animals because of their main means of living being fishing and hunting. Accordingly, their costumes are durable, warm and water-proof. Finally, the style of the costume is affected by the religious belief. In other words, the pattern in fashion is closely related with the religious belief or ancestor worship and nature worship. Accordingly, the symbols of these worship are often emerged in the decoration of the costume. The design of costume of the people in the northern areas of China is very simple. It is related with their monotheism. On the other hand, the costumes of twenty minority races in the east-northern parts of China can be devided into three racial groups such as the long robes of Man people and Mongols, Tunics of the peoples in the west-northern areas, and the pants and jackets of Hoche people. The minorority races all has not only the unique costume habit but their costumes are also related with their living style and production means.

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