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학제간연구 과학기술학 뇌인지과학 기술정책 기타 복합학

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논문 기본 정보

자료유형
학술저널
저자정보
저널정보
한국복식학회 복식 복식 제24권
발행연도
1995.5
수록면
15 - 28 (14page)

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This thesis focuses on the study of costume and ornaments of Shilla which had been severely affected by Uighur, and those of Uigher in Uigher self-governing district located in Shin Kang, East Turkestan, in Central Asia. This study aimes to idnetify the way of integration of Uighur`s costume and ornaments into Shilla, and orgins of Shilla`s costume and ornaments which had a mix of interantional elements through cross exchanges, by comparing the differences between the two, and at the same time to clarify the pedigree of Korean costume and ornaments which are said to be under a severe Chinese influence, by highlighting its uniqueness and originality. The result of the study demonstrates and originality of Shilla by melting foreign cultures into its own style in the process of accepting them. This means that the Shilla has recreated them in the form of simplification, and added naturalistic abstractness which is an element of Northern culture. The costume and ornaments are divided into coronets men`s costuem, women`s costume, and accessories. 1. Coroncts A horse-riding man, and the costume type of 유고제 窄袖肢體刑 tell the Northern culture`s influence on 백구수피기마인물채화첨입 and patterns of a lotus flower and arabesque show the 백구수피기마인물채화첨입 has an influence of Buddhism with culturce of bordering countires of Western China. the origin of 白構樹皮製弁形帽(圖頂形, 方頂形) lies in Northern cultures which can be found in ancient tombs of the Huns in Noin-Ula, and stone caves of Kizil in Kochang. The wall paintings in Alexandropol, Murutuk and 燉煌 No.409 cave show that 草花刑立篩系金冠 is under the influence of Northern culture, and Bezekrick No.25 cave and 繪幡 in Kocho also show that 樹林鹿角刑立篩冠 is under the influence of Northern culture, with its origin in Novocherkaask. In this regard, the transformed coroncts of Shilla has shows a blended culture of Shilla with Northern, Chinese, and Western cultures. 2. Men`s Costume 盤領袍 derives from cultures of bordering countries of Western China centering around Uighur and Turkey. 蓮珠文 in Uighur prince`s costume and in Uighur paintings of Central Asia were reflected into the arts of Shilla in a direct way, and the motive of Uighur was deviatedly expressed at Shilla`s arts in the form of simplicity, and naturalistic abstract paintings as is shown at 立樹變鳥文 in tiles and brick. Along with this, 窄袖肢體刑 costume originates from Eurasia`s Northern horseriding costumes as was shown in a golden man in B.C. 4-5C which is now possessd by Kazakstan Republic Academy Archelogy Center Museum, and a golden figure from Skitai ancient caves, and the origin is carried away into wall paintings of Kizil No.14 cave in 8c and Astana`s early period ancient tomb No.6. 3. Women`s Costume The hair styles of Shilla people are either 辨髮 or up-style with a lot of hair around it whose origin can be seen in Astana No.216 and No.187 caves of Kochang and Uighur`s wall paintings of royal princess`s hair style. Astana`s middle period No.206 and no.230 tombs reveal the its origin of 窄袖長裙 while Astana early period No.6 tomb shows that of 廈袖體滿刑 4. Accessories The earrings with small golden beads is seen at earrings of figure holding a sword in wall paintings of Kizil in about 5c, and those of a offering people in Sorchuk wall paintings. The earrings with small golden beads originates from a golden pendant of Shivargan, Afganistan, and golden pendants and other golden and metal accessories from Chrioba ancient tombs in Skitai Critia peninsula. Shilla`s costume derives from the costume style of horse-ridding man, which proves the fact that Shilla people are horse-ridding people with excellent horse-ridding techniques, and traditions. The people of Shilla are from horse-ridding people of local mounted momads in Northern part of Siberia steppe and this origin of Northern culture had been carried into Uighur in East Turkestan. At the same time, Shilla had a wealth and power since it was rich in gold and iron, thus producing lots of materials made of them.

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UCI(KEPA) : I410-ECN-0101-2017-381-000766691