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자료유형
학술저널
저자정보
저널정보
한국복식학회 복식 복식 제22권
발행연도
1994.5
수록면
263 - 275 (13page)

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The achievement of notable social reforms attained during the peirod of 19th and 20th centuries, nedlessly speaking, remodelded the social environmental into several different patterns, such as : 1) high industrialization, 2) propensity to consume 3) up graded overall social stands. Accordingly, the industrial world of the buttons, too established the mess production syhstem by breaking from convention of hand-craft work of 17th century. The raw materials used in the production line on buttons during the 20th century are almost all-kind of materials one can possibly named including cheap plastic which enabled production lines to produce cheaper but higher productivities of the buttons being produced. The design (incused design) used in the 19-20th centuries are : men, landscape, sprots feartures, birds, livestocks, bugs, or geomatirc features, tec. 1. The classification of the buttons by materials, Techniques, shapes, colors, marking (Incused design) used in the production of buttons in the England, United States of America, Laska, Italy, france, Denmark, Japan and India are categolized as : natural raw materials and syntetical resines. 1) Of the natural raw materials used are : Metal, Enamel, Iodine, Agate, Coral, Green Jade(Jasper) Granite, Wood, Ivory, Horn and Bone, etc.. 2) The sythetical resin used in the button industries are : Artificial jewell, glass, Acrylic material, Styroform, Celluloid, and Nylon, etc. 2. The thecnique quoted in producing buttons are hand craft work, inlay work precision, casting, press, mosic, dye, etching, processing, engraving, and embossed carving, etc. 3. The major designs used in the buttons industries are : Round shape, however, elliptical, column, angular, and edge shape often used. 4. The colors used are : The multi-colors were highly used than mono-colored materials such as : Adjoining Color and Contrast Color. The highest consideration to be considered in choosing the colors for the buttons are harmonization and matching factor with the garment or dresses to be wore. 5. The major design (incused design) on the buttons are embodiment, and the design were also used in order of abstractive-combination, abstractive, with has offeres much surprising. The button industries during the 19th and 20th centuries were not only the determination factors those can judge the value of self-pride of Nation and which were far beyond the industrial arts in those days but also highly refelected and influenced by cultural sense, ideology, and self-pride of the Nation of those period. The followings are details of th role of the buttons categolized the order of functional, ornamental and symbolical aspects : 1. The functional role : The functional role of the buttons were simply designed for fasten together the different part of the dress, however, the buttons beyond from this role of function, now a days, 2. The ornamental role : The ornamental role of the button were effectuated by : 1) shape, materials, colors, 2) technique, locations, size, and design (incused design). 3) The rawmaterials used for buttons shall not be over looked because it is highly depends on the taste, sense and combination of harmony with the garment to be wore. 4) The color of the buttons are made well contrasted with the color of garments just as in the case of other artistical area, such as matchs with the color of garment, or contrast with brightness of colors, contrasted as complementary color and so and so. 5) The technique being adoped are : precision casting, press, handcraft, inlay work, etching, mosic, etc. Since the buttons are no longer a simple catching devise used to fasten together the different part of the dress but now it has formed own and occupied the independent role in the garment or dresses, location can be determined and varying depending on the ideas of designers.

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