본 연구에서는 금화규(A. manihot jinhuakui)의 기능성 화장품 원료의 가능성을 확인하고자 꽃과 줄기를 ethanol과 염기성 수성 용매(1 M NaOH)로 추출하였다. 염기성 수성 용매로 추출한 금화규 꽃 추출물(WF)와 줄기 추출물(WS) 그리고 ethanol로 추출한 꽃 추출물(EF)와 줄기 추출물(ES)의 항산화력을 측정하였다. 항산화 측정은 DPPH radical assay, ABTS assay, FRAP assay를 통해 높은 항산화능을 확인하였다. 또한 총 폴리페놀 함량과 총 플라보노이드 함량을 측정하여 다량의 폴리페놀과 플라보노이드가 항산화능에 영향을 주었음을 확인하였다. Collagen 함량은 모든 추출물에서 나타나지 않았다. 항산화능에서는 염기성 수성 용매로 추출한 꽃추출물(WF)가 뛰어난 항산화능을 보여주었다. 세포 생리 활성에 대해서는, MTT assay를 통해 모든 추출물에서 피부세포에 대한 독성이 낮거나 거의 없음을 확인하였으며, NO 생성을 억제하는 정도와 항염, 미백 효과를 측정하였다. NO의 생성저해 효과에서, WS는 추출물을 250.00 μg/mL 농도에서 57.14% 억제능을 보였으며, NO의 생성저해 효과 순서는 WS>WF>ES>EF으로 나타났다. Melanogenesis 억제효과는 WS의 농도 250.00 μg/mL에서 13.46%까지 효과적으로 melanogenesis를 억제하였으며, 전체적으로 억제능 순서는 WS>WF>EF>ES으로 나타났다. Inflammatory cytokine 발현량 저해 실험은 모두 추출물 250.00 μg/mL 농도에서 실험하였다. TNF-alpha, IL-6 그리고 IL-1β의 WS 발현량 저해율은 각각 16.73%, 37.11%, 36.3%로 발현량 저해율이 가장 높게 나타났으며, WS>EF>ES>WF 순으로 inflammatiory cytokine 발현량 감소를 보였다.
금화규 추출물을 이용한 화장품 재료 연구에서는 금화규 동결건조추출물 용액의 점도가 첨가농도에 따라 모두 증가하였으며, 염기성 수성용매로 추출한 WF에서 높은 점성이 확인되었다. 금화규 10%의 실험군 emulsion과 동결건조 달팽이 점액 10%의 대조군 emulsion을 제작하여 점도를 비교하였다. 그 결과 WF 실험군의 증가율이 12만 9200 cPs로 가장 높았다. 또한 제조한 emulsion의 안정성 실험을 실시한 pH 측정결과 pH 6.03~6.73의 좁은 구간 내에서 수치를 보여 모두 안정성을 확인하였으며, 다양한 조건(0, 25, 40℃, sun light)에서 점도 변화를 측정한 결과 모두 비교적 높은 안정성을 보였다. 피부 개선 효과를 보기 위해 Control군 8명, WF.G군 8명, WS.G군 8명, EF.G군 8명, ES.G군 8명으로 구성된 총 5개 그룹을 선정하여 40명(평균연령=45세)을 대상으로 2주간 실험을 진행하였다. 실험에 앞서 피부 부작용 유무를 확인하기 위해 closed patch test를 실시하였다. 팔 안쪽 피부에 14일간, 오전과 오후 두 차례 도포한 뒤 피부 변화를 측정하였다. 피부 탄력 변화는 대조군을 포함하여 모든 금화규 동결건조추출물이 함유된 emulsion을 도포한 후 탄력이 증가하였으며, WF.G 군 증가율이 가장 높았다. 피부의 수분 측정에서는 control군을 포함한 모든 실험군이 크게 증가하였고, 특히 EF.G군에서 가장 높은 수분지수 증가율을 보였다. 피부의 색소침착과 주름 변화를 측정해 대조군을 포함한 모든 실험군에서 전반적으로 현저하게 감소하였으며, 특히 WF.G군이 가장 많이 감소하였다. 본 연구를 통하여 금화규 동결건조추출물이 피부의 탄력, 수분, 색소침착, 주름개선 효과가 있는 것으로 확인하였으며, 염기성 수성 용매로 추출한 금화규 꽃 동결건조(WF)물이 보다 높은 효능을 보임을 확인하였다. 전반적으로, 금화규는 ethanol을 이용한 추출보다 염기성 수성 용매를 이용한 추출에서 더 높은 maceration효과를 보였으며, 이는 금화규가 지닌 천연적 특성을 고려한 추출법이 기능성 화장품 원료의 가능성을 보여준 것이라 하겠다.

This study focuses on figuring out the possibility of functional cosmetics raw materials, especially the A. manihot jinhuakui. It uses Ethanol and water-based alkaline solvent (1 M NaOH) to extract the functional ingredients from the flowers and stems of the A. manihot jinhuakui, and compare the antioxidant power of the extractions. We measured the antioxidant power of the ingredients extracted by water-based alkaline solvent from the flowers (WF) and stems (WS), and the ingredients extracted by Ethanol from the flowers (EF) and stems (ES). The measurements conducted through DPPH radical elimination analysis, ABTS assay, and FRAP assay, and it showed a very high antioxidant capacity. Also, we obtained through this study a large amount of polyphenol and flavonoid confirm that affected antioxidant function. All extracts show antioxidant activity, especially the ingredients from the flowers (WF, EF) stated higher activity than from the stem extracts (WS, ES). Collagen content did not appear in all extractions. In particular, among the flower extracts (WF, EF), WF extracted from the water-based alkaline solvent shows excellent antioxidant activity. As for the cell bioactivity, through MTT assay, we confirmed that all extracts had very low or no toxicity to skin cells and measured the degree of inhibition of NO production, anti-inflammatory, and whitening effects. In the production and degradation effect of NO, WS shows 57.14% inhibitory at 250.00 μg/mL concentration of extract. The order of generation and degradation effects of NO is as WS>WF>ES>EF. About the inhibitory effect of melanogenesis, it represented the effective inhibition at 250.00 μg/mL concentration of WS as to 13.46%, and overall the suppression effect draws as in the order of WS>WF>EF>ES. Inflammatory cytokine generation low-resolution tests were all carried at 250.00 μg/mL concentration of extracts. At WS concentration, it exhibited the production inhibiting power against TNF-alpha, IL-6, and IL-1β as each 16.73%, 37.11%, and 37.11%, respectively. And we gained that the production inhibitions to inflammatory cytokine decreased its expression in the order of WS>EF>ES>WF. By the result, it shows that WS has the most cytokine expression inhibiting power. In the study of cosmetics materials using A. manihot jinhuakui extracts, the viscosity of the frozen-dried extracts were all increased according to the added concentration, and the high viscosity of the WF extracted with water-based alkaline solvent was confirmed. For more obvious comparison, we used snail mucus to compare the viscosity of the A. manihot jinhuakui. We generated the emulsions of experimental groups with 10% of freezing and drying A. manihot jinhuakui and control group emulsions with 10% of freezing and drying snail mucus. By the results, it shows that the WF experimental group had the highest incremental viscosity rates as 129,200 cPs. Besides, at the experiment of pH measurement conducted for cosmetic stability, it confirmed quite stable in a narrow pH range as 6.03~6.73, moreover, it shows a relatively high stability at the viscosity change measurements under various conditions (0, 25, 40°C, Sunlight). For examining the skin improvement effect, it carried for two weeks with 40 people(the average age = 45 years old) divided into five groups as Control, WF.G, WS.G, EF.G, and ES.G. Before the actual experiment, we performed a closed patch test as applying the extracts to the inner skin side of the arm twice in a day for 14 days to confirm the presence or absence of skin side effects and looked after the results. To see the elastic changes in the skin, it significantly increased elasticity after application of emulsion containing all A. manihot jinhuakui freeze-drying, including the control group, and the WF.G growth rate was the highest. In the moisture measurement of the skin, all experimental groups, including control, increased the moisture of the skin notably and showed the highest moisture index in EF.G. In the moisture measurement of the skin, it resulted as all experimental groups, including control, increased significantly and showed the highest moisture index in EF.G. At the measuring of the pigmentation and wrinkle changes of the skin, we found out that noticeably decreased pigmentation and wrinkle in all experimental groups, including the control, and the WF.G group was the most decreased. From the results of the whole experiments in the study, we learn that the high effects of the frozen-dried extracts of the A. manihot jinhuakui to the skin improvement, like improving the elasticity, moisture, pigmentation, and wrinkle. In particular, it points out that A. manihot jinhuakui flower freeze-drying (WF) extracted with water-based alkaline solvents showed high efficacy, especially at its highest viscosity. Conclusively, this study showed increasing the maceration effect of A. manihot jinhuakui''s extraction using water-based alkaline solvent, moreover, it demonstrated the possibility of functional cosmetics raw materials in A. manihot jinhuakui, which takes into account the properties of natural products.