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This study set out to compare 『A Drift Diary on Joseon』 and related historical materials in “costume aspect[服飾樣相] in the early 19th century” based several illustrations of superior officials that Yasda[安田義方] met in Joseon. In the research process, the investigator encountered many questions and found small differences between historical materials and between laws and customs of the times.
The costume aspect of superior officials that Yasda met were mainly divided into two types: one was the costume of superior officials that he met in Chungcheong-do including Yun Yeong-gyu(尹永圭) and Choi Hwa-nam(崔華男), and the other was that of Jo Dae-yeong(趙大永) that he met in Jeolla-do. These superior officials wore a public attire[公服] to extend their courtesy[禮] as they met Yasda and his crew that were sailors from another country. It is estimated that the former and latter group wore Yungbok(戎服) and Gunbok(軍服) in simple formal attires. The study examined specifically the aspects and characteristics of Yungbok and Gunbok those days based on their outfits.
A close look at Yasda’s paintings shows that there was a strict hierarchical order between upper- and lower-rank government officials and that it was reflected clearly in their attires. Then why did the Yungbok aspects of superior officials in Chungcheong-do not comply with the laws or systems of those days? That is, they were different from the Yungbok system in the colors of Ip(笠) according to the ranks, materials of Ipyeong(笠纓), and colors of Cheopri(帖裏) and Dae(帶).
It is noteworthy in Yasda’s paintings that they wore “Hye(鞋)” with no Sinmok[鞋頸] according to the customs of the times even though the Yungbok and Gunbok outfits required “Hwa(靴)” with long Sinmok[靴頸]. It was also found in 『Dasan’s Collection of Poetry and Prose[茶山詩文集]』. It is not clear whether these black leather shoes with an opening in the nose[鞋鼻] were “Suhyeja(水鞋子)”. It also remains as a question whether putting on Beoseon[襪] like “Hwa(靴)” was due to the vogue of Chinese custom or a wrong expression of “Haengjeon(行纏)”.
The costume aspect of superior officials that Yasda met were mainly divided into two types: one was the costume of superior officials that he met in Chungcheong-do including Yun Yeong-gyu(尹永圭) and Choi Hwa-nam(崔華男), and the other was that of Jo Dae-yeong(趙大永) that he met in Jeolla-do. These superior officials wore a public attire[公服] to extend their courtesy[禮] as they met Yasda and his crew that were sailors from another country. It is estimated that the former and latter group wore Yungbok(戎服) and Gunbok(軍服) in simple formal attires. The study examined specifically the aspects and characteristics of Yungbok and Gunbok those days based on their outfits.
A close look at Yasda’s paintings shows that there was a strict hierarchical order between upper- and lower-rank government officials and that it was reflected clearly in their attires. Then why did the Yungbok aspects of superior officials in Chungcheong-do not comply with the laws or systems of those days? That is, they were different from the Yungbok system in the colors of Ip(笠) according to the ranks, materials of Ipyeong(笠纓), and colors of Cheopri(帖裏) and Dae(帶).
It is noteworthy in Yasda’s paintings that they wore “Hye(鞋)” with no Sinmok[鞋頸] according to the customs of the times even though the Yungbok and Gunbok outfits required “Hwa(靴)” with long Sinmok[靴頸]. It was also found in 『Dasan’s Collection of Poetry and Prose[茶山詩文集]』. It is not clear whether these black leather shoes with an opening in the nose[鞋鼻] were “Suhyeja(水鞋子)”. It also remains as a question whether putting on Beoseon[襪] like “Hwa(靴)” was due to the vogue of Chinese custom or a wrong expression of “Haengjeon(行纏)”.
목차
Ⅰ. 머리말
Ⅱ. 『조선표류일기』에서 복식 관련 그림과 기록
Ⅲ. 융복의 제도와 양상
Ⅳ. 군복의 제도와 양상
Ⅴ. 맺음말
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