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자료유형
학술저널
저자정보
박봉순 장인우 (인천대학교)
저널정보
한복문화학회 한복문화 韓服文化 第20卷 第4號
발행연도
2017.12
수록면
55 - 67 (13page)
DOI
10.16885/jktc.2017.12.20.4.55

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This study is intended to present the reproducible dyeing method through dyeing of poducheongsaek(包頭靑色) which recorded in “Lyeounyeom(湅染), Jeonggongji(展功志), Imweongyeongjeji(林園經濟志).” Poducheongsaek in the record is called as ‘Deep black(深黑色),’ and it is black. Also, we can know that the material of dyeing is chestnut husk(栗殼) or lotus husk(蓮子殼), and mordant is iron powder(鐵砂), green vitrial(皁礬). However, in spite of the record of such dye and mordant, it has a difficulty for the actual dyeing, because it has not mentioned for the ratio of dye, number of repetitions, kind of mordants. In this paper, for the materials, we used silk and raw-silk, for dye, chestnut husk(栗殼), we executed in 4 ways that the 50% ratio, 100% ratio, 200% ratio, and 400% ratio of fabric weight. For the repeat numbers of dyeing, we repeated in 5 ways that 1 time(一染), 2 repeat times(二染), 3 repeat times(三染), 4 repeat times(四染), and 5 repeat times(五染), and used the iron powder and green vitrial for mordant. We attempted the amount of dye and repeat number of dyeing in various ways, so measured the color with value of color difference L*a*b* and tried to apprehend the dyeing method in accordance with tone. For the result of study, we can apprehend the correlation between amount of dye materials and repeat numbers of dyeing, as belows: In case of 5 repeat times of dyeing(五染), it shows that the more amounts of chestnut husk, the less value of L*, a*, b*. As the amount of dye is increased, it gets dark. For the deep black(深黑色) of Poducheongsaek in record, it repeats the number of dyeing from 3 repeat times dying (三染) to 5 repeat times dye (五染), for amounts of chestnut husk as more than 400% ratio of material, and we can make mordant into dark black in blending iron powder and green vitrial.

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ABSTRACT
Ⅰ. 서언
Ⅱ. 포두청색(包頭靑色) 염색법
Ⅲ. 포두청색의 염색법 재현
Ⅳ. 염색결과
Ⅴ. 결언
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UCI(KEPA) : I410-ECN-0101-2018-300-001739015