In the midst of increasing interest in the environment, interest in sustainable development natural dyes is growing relatively more recently than synthetic dyes. In this study, after cationization treatment of Bamboo-Cotton blended fabrics, which is a natural fiber, the dyeability of cochineal and gardenia jasminoides were investigated.
Cellulose fiber is a material used in various fields. It is the most used type of fiber because of its excellent hygroscopicity and dyeability. Recently, as natural fiber materials have been highlighted due to the influence of eco-friendliness and sustainable development, bamboo fiber has become a commonly used eco-friendly fiber. Cellulose fibers are part of the -OH hydroxyl group, which means they are more chemically reactive than synthetic fibers. In this study, the cationization properties of bamboo-Cotton blended fabrics cationized using CHPTAC(3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride) in the PDC(Padding-drying-curing) method were investigated. Various characteristics according to cationization were studied through elemental analysis, FT-IR(fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy) analysis, X-ray diffraction analysis, TGA(thermogravimetric) analysis, and SEM (scanning electron microscope) analysis.
The nitrogen content of the cationized Bamboo-Cotton blended fabrics increased with an increase in the concentration of cationizing agent CHPTAC, and it was seen to be highly bound to cellulose molecules. As a result of FT-IR analysis, both 100% pure cotton fabrics and CHPTAC-0 and CHPTAC-150 fabrics were seen to be typical cellulose. As a result of X-ray diffraction analysis, both 100% pure cotton fabrics and CHPTAC-0 and CHPTAC-150 fabrics showed typical cellulose I structures. As a result of X-ray diffraction analysis, both 100% pure cotton fabrics and CHPTAC-0 and CHPTAC-150 fabrics showed typical cellulose I structures. As the cationization progressed, micropores appeared on the surface of the blended fabric.

In this study, after cationization treatment of Bamboo-Cotton blended fabric, which is a natural fiber, the dyeability of cochineal was investigated.
Results of the dyeing experiments on cochineal using Bamboo-Cotton blended fabrics treated with cationization are as follows:

As a result, the optimal cation treatment concentration was found to be CHPTAC-125. In addition, the optimal dyeing time was 80 minutes and the optimal dyeing temperature was 90℃. The surface color according to the mordant was bright purple with a reddish color in the case of the non-mordanted sample. In Al mordant, showing a bright pink color. In Cu mordant, the L* value slightly decreased, and a reddish gray color was obtained. In Fe mordant, the L* value decreased, and dark gray with no redness. As a result of the dyeability according to the mordant, the dyeing rate was high in the order of Fe, Cu, and Al. As a result of fastness analysis, discoloration among washing fastnesses according to the concentration of cationization treatment was 1 to 2 grades low in the case of cation treatment. Stain showed 4 to 5 grades in both undyed and cationized samples. The light fastness was 4 grades in undyed samples and 3 to 4 grades in all concentrations when treated with cations. In the fastness analysis according to the mordant, discoloration among the washing fastnesses were 3 grades for Al and Cu mordants, and 2 to 3 grades for Fe mordants. In the case of staining among washing fastnesses, Al, Fe, and Cu mordants were rated 1 to 2 grades when washed with cotton and 4 to 5 grades when washed with other fabrics other than cotton. The light fastness according to the mordant treatment was grade 3 when mordanted with Al and grade 4 when mordanted with Fe and Cu.

In this study, after cationization treatment of Bamboo-Cotton blended fabric, which is a natural fiber, the dyeability of gardenia jasminoides was investigated. Results of the dyeing experiments on gardenia jasminoides using Bamboo-Cotton blended fabrics treated with cationization are as follows:

As a result, it was found that the higher the cationization concentration, the higher the dyeing properties. In addition, the optimal dyeing time for cochineal on Bamboo-Cotton blended fabric was 40 minutes and the optimal dyeing temperature was 60℃. As for the surface color after dyeing, there was no significant change in surface color depending on the mordant treatment for Al and Cu mordants. In the case of Fe mordant, it was slightly darker than the un-mordanted sample. From these results, it can be seen that there was no significant change in brightness and surface color due to mordant treatment. The dyeing results according to the mordant treatment showed that all samples, including the un-mordanted sample and samples treated with Al, Cu, and Fe mordants, had the highest K/S value around the wavelength of 450 nm, and there was no increase in dye uptake rate according to the mordant treatment. The reliability analysis showed that the washing fastness with respect to color change was 2 to 4 grades depending on the cationization concentration, and the stain resistance was 4 to 5 grades. The light fastness was 3 to 4 grades. In the reliability analysis according to the mordant treatment, the washing fastness with respect to color change was 3 to 4 grades for Fe, Cu, and Al mordant treatments, and the stain resistance was 4 to 5 grades except for cotton. The light fastness was 3 to 4 grades for Fe and Cu mordant treatments, and 2 to 3 grades for Al mordant treatment.