현대인들의 바쁜 일상으로 시술 시간의 단축과 손질이 용이한 열 펌 시술이 큰 비중을 차지하고 있다. 열 펌의 한 종류인 아이론 펌은 아이론기기의 고온의 열을 이용해 모발의 모표피를 압착시켜 윤기있는 웨이브를 형성시켜 주는 반면 물리적인 열에 의한 모발변성, 활성산소 발생으로 인한 단백질 파괴 등과 같은 문제점들이 있다. 이에 Vitamin C가 풍부하고 활성산소를 억제하는 여주추출물을 펌 용제 1제에 첨가하여 모발 손상을 최소화하고 시술 효과를 극대화 할 수 있는 방안을 검토하고자 하였다.
이에 미용 산업 현장에서 널리 이용되고 있는 1제에 여주추출물을 혼합하여 아이론기기 및 연화처리시간에 따라 아이론 펌 시술 시 천연추출물 첨가의 효능과 적정 연화처리시간을 알아보고자 다음과 같이 실험하였다.
원형 아이론 펌 시술한 군을 R군으로 구분하였으며 1제에 여주추출물을 첨가하지 않고 15분 연화처리한 군을 R1, 1제에 여주추출물을 첨가하여 15분 연화처리한 군을 BR1, 1제에 여주추출물을 첨가하지 않고 17분 연화처리 군을 R2, 1제에 여주추출물을 첨가하여 17분 연화한 군을 BR2로 하였다. 플랫 아이론 펌 시술한 군을 P군으로 구분하였으며, 1제에 여주추출물을 첨가하지 않고 15분 연화처리한 군을 P1, 1제에 여주추출물을 첨가하여 15분 연화처리한 군을 BP1, 1제에 여주추출물을 첨가하지 않고 17분 연화처리한 군을 P2, 1제에 여주추출물을 첨가하여 17분 연화처리한 군을 BP2로 설정하여 다음과 같은 결과를 도출하였다.
웨이브 효율성 측정결과 원형 아이론 펌 시술한 군(R군)에서 1제에 여주추출물을 첨가하여 17분 연화 처리한 BR2의 펌 후 길이 115.65 ㎜, 웨이브 효율성 51.81%로 가장 높은 효율성을 나타냈으며, 플랫 아이론 펌 시술한 군(P군)에서 여주추출물을 첨가하여 17분 연화 처리한 BP2의 펌 후 길이는 155.98 ㎜이며 웨이브 효율성 35.01%로 나타났다.
모발의 굵기를 측정한 결과 Virgin hair는 0.039 ± 0.0014 ㎜로 측정되었으며, 원형 아이론 펌 시술한 군(R군)에서 1제에 여주추출물을 첨가하여 연화시간 17분 자연 방치한 BR2는 0.043 ± 0.0021 ㎜로 모발 굵기가 가장 굵은 것으로 나타났다. 플랫 아이론기기를 사용한 군(P군)에서는 1제에 여주추출물을 첨가하여 연화시간 17분 자연 방치한 BP2가 0.042 ± 0.0037 ㎜로 측정 되어 모발 굵기가 Virgin hair 보다 굵은 것으로 측정되었다.
보습력 측정 결과 Virgin hair는 84.34%로 측정되었으며 원형 아이론 펌 시술한 군(R군)에서는 1제에 여주추출물을 첨가하여 연화시간 17분 처리한 BR2가 86.86%로 Virgin hair보다 보습력이 2.52% 증가하는 결과를 확인하였다. 플랫 아이론기기를 사용한 군(P군)에서는 여주추출물을 첨가하여 17분 처리한 BP2가 81.8%로 Virgin hair에 비해 보습력이 2.54%로 낮게 나타났지만 플랫 아이론 집단에서는 가장 높은 보습력을 나타냈다. 전반적으로 여주추출물을 첨가하지 않은 군에 비해 여주추출물을 1제에 첨가한 군이 높은 보습력을 유지하고 있어 여주추출물 첨가가 모발 수분 유출을 방지하는 효과가 있음을 확인하였다.
인장강도 측정결과 Virgin hair는 136.51 ± 12.35 gf/㎟로 측정되었으며 전체적으로 1제에 여주추출물 첨가한 집단이 여주추출물을 첨가하지 않은 집단보다 높게 나왔다. 원형 아이론 펌 시술한 R군에서는 BR2가 126.66 ± 6.52 gf/㎟로 가장 높은 결과를 가져왔고 플랫 아이론 펌 시술한 P군에서는 BP1는 118.99 ± 23.86 gf/㎟로 P군에서 비교적 높은 결과를 나타냈다.
연신율 측정결과 Virgin hair는 167.84 ± 17.82%로 나타났고, 원형 아이론 펌 시술 시 1제에 여주추출물을 첨가하여 연화시간 17분 처리한 BR2는 178.00 ± 7.38%로 가장 높게 측정되었으며, 플랫 아이론 펌 시술 시 1제에 여주추출물 첨가하여 연화시간 15분 시술한 BP1이 168.39 ± 18.17%로 높게 측정되었다. 따라서 여주추출물 미첨가군의 연신율이 대체적으로 낮은 것으로 보아 여주추출물 첨가가 연신율에 영향을 미치는 것으로 확인되었다.
모표피 관찰 결과 전체적으로 1제에 여주추출물을 첨가한 집단이 Virgin hair와 유사하게 나타났다. 전체적으로 여주추출물을 첨가하여 시술한 군(BR1, BR2, BP1, BP2)의 모표피가 깔끔하고 안정적으로 나왔고 Virgin hair의 모표피와 유사한 형태를 보였으며 스케일이 뚜렷하고 그 간격이 일정한 것으로 나타났다. 여주추출물을 미첨가하여 시술한 군(R1, R2, P1, P2)은 대체적으로 모표피가 흡착되어 스케일이 불안정하게 나타났다.
모발 미세구조 관찰에서는 Virgin hair의 큐티클 들뜸 정도는 501.13 ± 35.68 ㎚로 측정되었고 Damaged hair의 큐티클 굵기는 413.43 ± 7.68 ㎚로 측정되었다. 1제에 여주추출물 첨가 후 연화처리 17분에 원형 아이론 펌을 실시한 BR2의 경우 표면이 매끈하며 들뜸 정도와 박리 상태가 매우 완화된 것으로 보이며 큐티클 들뜸 정도 또한 469.42 ± 16.05 ㎚로 측정되어 가장 굵은 수치를 나타냈다. 1제에 여주추출물을 첨가하고 17분 연화하여 플랫 아이론 펌을 시술한 BP2의 경우 큐티클 들뜸 정도는 401.59 ± 17.02 ㎚로 측정되었으며, 원형 아이론 펌에 비해 다소 감소하였지만 P군에서는 가장 높은 큐티클 굵기를 나타내었다.
표면원소를 분석한 결과 Virgin hair의 경우 황 함유량이 9.35%로 나타났으며 대체적으로 여주추출물을 첨가하여 시술한 군이 여주추출물을 첨가하지 않은 군보다 황 함유량이 높은 것으로 나타났다. 그 중에서도 연화시간 15분에 원형 아이론 펌 시술한 BR1이 11.80%로 함유량이 가장 높았으며, 플랫 아이론 펌 시술한 P2가 07.92%로 나타나 플랫 아이론 펌 군에서 가장 높은 황 함유량을 보였다.
이상의 결과를 종합해보면 아이론 펌 시술 시 여주추출물이 모발 손상 완화에 효과가 있음을 입증하였으며 특히, 17분 연화 처리하는 방법이 가장 효과적인 것으로 나타났다. 이에 여주추출물이 천연 기능성 화장품 소재로 활용 가능성이 있어 추후 이를 이용한 모발 화장품 분야에 활용 될 수 있도록 지속적인 연구가 필요할 것으로 사료된다.

The heat perm procedure, which shortens the procedure time and is easy to fix, is high weight due to the busy life of contemporary men. While the iron perm, which is a type of heat perm, forms the glossy wave by pressing the cuticle using the high temperature heat of the iron equipment, it has problems such as the hair degeneration by the physical heat, the protein destruction by generating the activate oxygen, etc. Therefore, this study was intended to examine the measure to minimize the hair damage and to maximize the effects of procedure by adding the balsam pear extract to the primary solvent.
To find out the efficacy of adding natural extract by the iron equipments and the softening treatment time and the appropriate softening treatment time when performing the iron perm, the experiment was conducted by mixing the balsam pear extract with the primary perm solvent used widely in the beauty industry as follows.
The group performed the circular iron perm was classified as R group, from which the group performed softening treatment for 15 minutes without adding balsam pear extract, the group performed the softening treatment for 17 minutes adding the balsam pear extract to the primary solvent, the group performed the softening treatment for 17 minutes without adding balsam pear extract to the primary solvent and the group performed the softening treatment adding the balsam pear extract to the primary solvent were classified as R1, BR1, R2 and BR2, respectively. The group performed the flat iron perm was classified as P group, from which the group performed the softening treatment for 15 minutes without adding balsam pear extract, the group performed the softening treatment for 15 minutes adding the balsam pear extract, the group performed the softening treatment for 17 minutes without adding the balsam pear extract, and the group performed the softening treatment for 17 minutes adding the balsam pear extract to the primary solvent were classified as P1, BP1, P2 and BP2, respectively. And following results were obtained.
In the results of measuring the wave efficiency, BR2 performed softening treatment for 17 minutes adding the balsam pear extract to the primary solvent showed the length of 115.65 ㎜ and the wave efficiency of 51.81% after performing the perm representing highest efficiency in the group performed the circular iron perm (R group), and in the group performed the flat iron perm (P group), the length of BP2 performed the softening treatment for 17 minutes adding the balsam extract to the solvent after performing the perm was measured as 155.98 ㎜ representing 35.01% of wave efficiency.
In the results of measuring the thickness of hair, the virgin hair was measured as 0.039 ± 0.0014 ㎜ and the BR2, which performed softening treatment for 17 minutes adding the balsam pear extract to the primary solvent and left in nature, was 0.043 ± 0.0021 ㎜ representing the thickest hair in the group performed the circular iron perm (R group). In the group, which the flat iron equipment was used (P group), the thickness of BP2, which was left in nature for 17 minutes as softening treatment time adding the balsam pear extract to the primary solvent, was measured as 0.0423 ± 0.0037 ㎜ representing thicker than virgin hair.
In the results of measuring the moisturizing ability, while the virgin hair was measured as 84.34%, the BR2, which was performed the softening treatment for 17 minutes adding the balsam extract to the primary solvent, represented the result of moisturizing ability increased by 2.52% than the virgin hair. While in the group used the flat iron device (P group), BP2, which was treat for 17 minutes adding the balsam pear extract, was measured as 81.8% representing 2.54% lower than virgin hair, it represented the highest moisturizing ability among the flat iron group. Since in general, the group, which the balsam pear extract was added to the primary solvent, maintained the high moisturizing ability than the group, which the balsam extract was not added, it was confirmed that adding the balsam pear extract has effects to prevent the loss of hair moisture.
In the results of measuring tensile strength, the virgin hair was measured as 136.51 ± 12.35 gf/㎟, and generally, the group, which the balsam extract was added to the primary solvent, represented higher than the group, which it was not added. In the R group, which the circular iron perm was performed, BR2 was measured as 126.66 ± 6.52 gf/㎟ representing highest record and in the P group, which the flat iron perm was performed, BP1 was measured as 118.99 ± 23.86 gf/㎟ representing relatively high in the P group.
In the results of measuring elongation percentage, while the virgin hair was measured as 167.84 ± 17.82%, BR2, which the softening treatment was performed for 17 minutes adding the balsam pear extract to the primary solvent when performing circular perm, was measured as 178.00 ± 7.38% representing highest value and the BP1, which the softening treatment was performed for 15 minutes adding the balsam pear extract to the primary solvent when performing the flat iron perm, was measured as 168.39 ± 18.17% representing high value. Therefore, considering the elongation percentage of the group, which the balsam extract was not added, was lower, adding the balsam pear extract to the solvent has influence on the elongation percentage.
In the result of observing the cuticle, generally, the group, which the balsam pear extract was added to the primary solvent, represented similar results to the virgin hair. In general, the cuticle of the groups, which the balsam pear extract was added to the solvent, (BR1, BR2, BP1 and BP2) was represented neat and stable showing similar to the cuticle of virgin hair and the scale was clear and had constant interval, The group, which the balsam pear extract was not added, (R1, R2, P1 and P2) generally showed the unstable scale as the cuticle was absorbed.
In the results of observing microstructure of the hair, the heaving of cuticle in the virgin hair was measured as 502.13 ± 35.68 ㎚ and the thickness of cuticle in the damaged hair was measured as 413.43 ± 7.68 ㎚. In case of BR2, which the softening treatment for 17 minutes and the circular iron perm were performed after adding the balsam pear extract to the solvent, the surface was smooth and seemed that the heaving and the exfoliation were alleviated very much, and the heaving also was measured as 469.42 ± 16.05 ㎚ representing the thickest value. In case of BP2, which was performed with the flat iron perm by adding the balsam pear extract to the primary solvent and softening treatment for 17 minutes, the heaving of cuticle was measured as 401.59 ± 17.02 ㎚ representing highest thickness of the cuticle while it was reduced slightly compared to the circular iron perm.
In the results of analyzing the surface element, in case of virgin hair, the sulfur content was represented as 09.35% and in general, the group, which the procedure was performed by adding the balsam pear extract, represented high sulfur content than the group, which it was not added. Among them, the BR1, which the circular iron perm was performed with the softening treatment time of 15 minutes, was measured as 07.92% representing highest sulfur content among the group performed the flat irom perm.
Aggregating the abovementioned results, it was proved that the balsam pear extract has effects on the alleviation of damaged hair and particularly, the method that the softening treatment was performed for 17 minutes was represented the most effective. Therefore, since the balsam pear extract has potential to be used as natural functional cosmetic material, the constant research is deemed to be necessary so that it can be used in the hair cosmetics area.