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논문 기본 정보

자료유형
학술저널
저자정보
김양희 (인하대학교 의류디자인전공) 김현주 (인하대학교 대학원 의류학과)
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한국의류학회 한국의류학회지 한국의류학회지 제36권 제9호
발행연도
2012.1
수록면
901 - 915 (15page)

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This study comparatively analyzes the characteristics, changes, and differences in class-based costume typology according to a concept of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people in France. The methods and contents are as follow. First, the scope of common people is grasped according to the historical background and a concept of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people in France. Second, through considering a prior research on analyzing the data of ancient documents on the economy of clothing, it classifies common people into bourgeoisie, urban common people, rural common people, and the destitute. It then examines diachronic evolution, and class-based synchronic difference in the consumption of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people's costumes in France. Third, it analyzes the appearance frequency by period according to type of common people's costumes, which were shown in pictorial materials with 283 sheets of engravings and 54 pieces of paintings; in addition, it reconstructs the succession and expansion in typology. It grasps differences and changes in morphology by class, space, and period of typology for common people's costumes. Common people's consumption of costumes was understood to have grown in qualitative aspects as well as a rise in the whole clothing demand. A class-based structure formed and indicated that a fashion cycle existed. As a result of analyzing common people's clothes (shown in pictorial materials of the $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century) 41 items were grasped by gender and according to costume kind. Typology in common people's costumes (classified into bourgeoisie, urban common people, rural common people, and the destitute) showed a change by period. A change in typical costume typology was accepted more by the bourgeoisie than by urban and rural common people, and was accepted more by rural communities than by urban populations. Thus, a difference was formed through an expansion with a temporal difference that depended on class and space.

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