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논문 기본 정보

자료유형
학술저널
저자정보
박정순 (동아대학교 이과대학 의류학과)
저널정보
대한가정학회 대한가정학회지 대한가정학회지 제20권 제3호
발행연도
1982.1
수록면
9 - 18 (10page)

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초록· 키워드

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In this study, we attempted to make an original pattern of clothing for an abnormal type of figure, especially for the type of kyphosis. We measured the curvature of the spine of a woman with kyphosis with a Martin measuring instrument and a silhouetter in the following ways. First, we counted the rate of shrinkage of the standard lines drawn on the surface of the body according as the body moved. Secondly, placing the front and back darts, the front and back shoulder darts and the side darts according to“Munhwa”pattern, we made cubic cuttings of four moving postures as well as the standing one. Thirdly, we superposed the developed patterns of the standing and the moving postures, measuring the position change and the amount of the chaange of the darts, and compared them. The results are as follows: 1) In the developed pattern of a cubic cutting of the basic pattern and the standing posture, the neckhole became larger than that of the basic pattern, and the waist line was lowered than that of the basic pattern because the center back line was shortened due to the curved backbone. 2) As for the change of the standard line according to the movement, we found that the waist line, the center front line, the center back line, the bust width line, the upper back width line and the back width line became longer. Special consideration must be given to the function of the clothing for an abnormal type of figure. 3) The difference of the measurements between the cubic cutting and the body measurement regardless of the body movement is due to a gap by an acute angle at the jutted place between the developed pattern and the body surface. We found that the body measurement of the upper back width line, the back width line and the bust line became larger. Consequently, in making an original clothing pattern, it is desirable that we must not place the front and the back waist darts at the jutted place on the back from the functional and the aesthetic viewpoint of clothing. It is also desirable that we must widen the neckhole because the shoulder angle is close to a straight line due to a jut of the upper back width line.

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