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An Observation on the Reconstitution of Materials in Western Dress - Focused on the Visual Tactility of the Texture of Dresses from the Renaissance era to the Rococo era -
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서양 근세 복식에 나타난 재료의 재구성 분석 : 르네상스부터 로코코까지 복식 텍스츄어의 시각적 촉각성을 중심으로

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Type
Academic journal
Author
Minhyung Jo (국립안동대학교) Shinmi Park (국립안동대학교)
Journal
The Korean Society of Costume Journal of the Korean Society of Costume Vol.69 No.2(Wn.217) KCI Accredited Journals
Published
2019.2
Pages
101 - 121 (21page)
DOI
10.7233/jksc.2019.69.2.101

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An Observation on the Reconstitution of Materials in Western Dress - Focused on the Visual Tactility of the Texture of Dresses from the Renaissance era to the Rococo era -
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The purpose of this study is to analyze the reconstitution of materials which started to appear in Western dress designs from the Renaissance era to the Rococo era, focusing on the visual tactility of texture. The research includes a literature survey and content analysis to probe the following three research questions. How do the material reconstitution techniques appear as classified in the dress texture? What are the characteristics of early modern dress textures and the applied techniques? What are the features of visual tactility from the Renaissance era to the Rococo era, using the extracted reconstitution ratio as the point of comparison? This study answers these questions by analyzing the reconstitution techniques of materials and their characteristics through 487 photos gathered from books and museum collections published between the 15th and 18th centuries.
As a result of the analysis, the techniques can be divided into frontal and multifaceted reconstitutions, based on their frontality and their multifaceted nature. These were in further subdivided as “low-relief texture,” “high-relief texture,” “cut-style texture,” and “attachment-style texture,” depending on the properties of surface texture. The study classified the reconstitution of materials used in early modern Western dresses as “one-dimensional visual tactility,” “two-dimensional visual tactility,” and “three-dimensional visual tactility,” based on the material and technique applied. Consequently, the reconstitution of materials in the Renaissance era dresses were mostly comprised of two-dimensional visual tactility using a single technique to build a three-dimensional silhouette. In contrast, the surface combination of qualitatively different materials created a preponderance of three-dimensional visual tactility in the Baroque era. Lastly, Rococo dresses exhibited a prevalence of two-dimensional visual tactility to establish artificial forms and three-dimensional visual tactility emphasizing flexible decorativeness.

Contents

ABSTRACT
Ⅰ. 서론
Ⅱ. 복식의 텍스츄어로 분류한 재료의 재구성
Ⅲ. 근세 복식에 나타난 텍스츄어의 시각적 촉각성 분류
Ⅳ. 재료의 재구성 비율로 추출한 근세시대별 시각적 촉각성 특성 분석
Ⅴ. 결론
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UCI(KEPA) : I410-ECN-0101-2019-381-000495968