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논문 기본 정보

자료유형
학술저널
저자정보
박봉순 장인우 (인천대학교)
저널정보
한국복식학회 복식 복식 제66권 제3호 (통권 제194호)
발행연도
2016.4
수록면
135 - 146 (12page)

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초록· 키워드

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This study is examines the replica of the excavated braided belt(出土絛帶) that tied the Daedae(大帶) of Simui(深衣). This study aims to comprehend the structure and color of the excavated braided belt, and to reproduce the Jodae(braided belt) of Kim Won-taek(1683-1766) clan, which was excavated in Cheongju. Black dye was used on the belt since it was the color that remained the most on the artifact. This study in the color black is focused on the Cheungchosack (靑皁色) in Jeonggongji(展功志) from the first volume of ‘Yimwongyeongjeji(林圓經濟志)’.
From the Kim Won-taek clan, the braided belt of Simui of Kim Won-taek and his son, Kim Shang-jik(1716-1773), have been excavated. The blackness of the braided belt was more apparent in Kim Shang-jik compared to Kim Won-taek, and also Kim Shang-jik’s braided belt was darkbrown. So I mixed gallnut, green vitriol, ash tree and catechu, the ingredient of bluish black, in equal proportions. Kim Won-taek’s silk thread was dyed 3 times and Kim Sang-jik’s silk thread was dyed 5 times to reproduce the original belt.
Based on the information from the ‘Saryepyenlam(四禮便覽)’ that the Jo(絛) was weaved with five colored threads, I reproduced the Jo(絛) with sophora flowers, gardenia, amur cork tree, safflower, madder and indigo sediment. Yeokeum organization(interlacing), which is a Jodae woven strands of both sets of 15 repeats construction were in the mixed organization of 3/2 and 2/2.

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ABSTRACT
Ⅰ. 서언
Ⅱ. 출토 조대의 구조와 색상
Ⅲ. 청조색 염색
Ⅳ. 조대 재현
Ⅴ. 결언
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UCI(KEPA) : I410-ECN-0101-2017-381-000770748