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자료유형
학술저널
저자정보
저널정보
한국복식학회 복식 복식 제64권 제4호
발행연도
2014.6
수록면
162 - 175 (14page)

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This study focuses on Korea`s traditional-style soryebok, in terms of its foundation, progression, and structural features. The research methods employed here include literature analyses of relevant laws and an official daily gazette, and practical analyses of artifacts and photographic documents. Especially, the artifacts of heukdannyeong black uniform for officials with a round neck in the form of chaksu tight sleeves were examined, which was regulated as soryebok in Eulmiuijegaehyeok. The term “soryebok” firstly appeared in 使和記略 Sahwagiryak written by Park Yeong-hyo, a foreign envoy to Japan, in 1882. Emperor`s invitation written in the bookasked him to wear daeryebok at the ritual and soryebok to the banquet. Soryebok was not adopted in Gapshinuijegaehyeok in 1884. However, several illustrated documents of the modern banquets at that time reveal that sabok, which was included in the 1884 reform, was used as soryebok. According to the Gapouijegaehyeok in December 1894, courtiers were required to wear heukdannyeong as daeryebok, and add juui topcoat and dapho sleeveless coat as tongsangyebok when they visited the royal palace. In Joseon`s first daeryebok system, the term "tongsangyebok" that had been used in Japan was employed before soryebok was used. According to Eulmiuijegaehyeok in August 1895, the term “soryebok” originated from a costume ritual for courtiers of the Joseon Dynasty. Soryebok featured heokbannyeong chaksupo, samo winged hat for officials , sokdae belt , and hwaja shoes for officials . There are around 24 artifact pieces of heukdannyeong in the form of chaksu tight sleeves in the following locations: garments of Prince Heungwangun and Wansungun, the court artifacts, Korea University Museum, Yun Ung-ryeol`s family housed at Yonsei University, and Kyungwoon Museum. Artifacts have mu godet pulled back and a topcoat-like triangular mu. In conclusion, heukdannyeong, traditional-style soryebok has significance in the history of modern dress because streamlined traditional clothes and newly introduced Western dress system were able to be combined.

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UCI(KEPA) : I410-ECN-0101-2017-381-000746291