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학술연구/단체지원/교육 등 연구자 활동을 지속하도록 DBpia가 지원하고 있어요.
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This study is about the periodic characteristics of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty. Wonsam include the Danryeong-shaped Wonsam in the beginning, the compound Wonsam in a period of transition and the stereotyped Wonsam in the late Joseon Dynasty. The formative characteristics of Wonsam are divided into four stages. The first stage of the Wonsam is from the 15th to 16th century. The shape of Wonsam began to form and it was similar to one of Danryeong during this time. The formative characteristics of the first Wonsam included collars that looked like one of Danryeong, side pleats(called Moo) with multiple inner folds, straight cylinder-shaped sleeves, and a belt tied with the Wonsam. There were various fabrics that were used for the Wonsam from this stage. Second stage of the Wonsam is from the early 17th to mid 17th century. This period marked the beginning of the transition of the Wonsam and it served as a stepping-stone to the development stage in the Joseon Dynasty. The characteristics of the transitional Wonsam were a complex combination of the Danryeong and Wonsam. During this period, the Wonsam went through many changes and forms in a short period of time. Third stage of the Wonsam is from the mid 17th to early 19th century. The Wonsam was developed at this stage. The developed Wonsam went through a period of transition equipped with a stable form. The formative characteristics of Wonsam during this period included collars that faced each other, big and wide sleeves with multicolored stripes, Hansam, curve-edged side seam and the side pleats(Moo) with multiple inner folds had disappeared. It was a turning point from the single-layered clothes to double layered clothes and from dark blue to green color appeared at this time. The fabric patterns of this stage tended to consist of more simplified silk pattern. The fourth stage of the Wonsam is from the late 19th to 20th century. The Wonsam was expanded at this stage. The formative characteristics and fabrics were typically used for the standard Wonsam and were divided into two types; as a ceremonial robe used in courts and a wedding ceremonial robe for the common people. Phenomena such as sewing of double-layered clothes as one and straight-edged side seam during the late Joseon period developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture.
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참고문헌 (23)
참고문헌 신청
1. [학위논문] - 임현주 / 2012 / 朝鮮時代 圓衫의 由來와 變遷過程 硏究 / 박사 / 경원대학교 대학원
2. [학술지(정기간행물)] - 송미경 / 2002 / 조선시대 여성 단령(<한문>)에 관한 연구 -출토복식을 중심으로- / 복식 52 (8) : 151 ~ 160
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4. [기타자료] - / 1498 / 朝鮮王朝實錄燕山君日記, 燕山29卷, 4年6月15日(庚辰) 1번째 기사, 第十條; 圓衫單長衣, 勿擧行 / 국사편찬위원회 편, PDF파일
5. [기타자료] - / 1505 / 朝鮮王朝實錄燕山君日記, 燕山58卷, 11年6月13日(병인) 3번째 기 사; 自是紗羅綾叚, 其價湧貴, 朝士家貧不能貿者, 則以 女服造團領, 朝賀、朝參時, 太半皆是女圓衫 / 국사편찬위원회 편, PDF파일
2. [학술지(정기간행물)] - 송미경 / 2002 / 조선시대 여성 단령(<한문>)에 관한 연구 -출토복식을 중심으로- / 복식 52 (8) : 151 ~ 160
3. [기타자료] - 梁誠之 / 1791 / 訥齋集, 卷四, 四十九
4. [기타자료] - / 1498 / 朝鮮王朝實錄燕山君日記, 燕山29卷, 4年6月15日(庚辰) 1번째 기사, 第十條; 圓衫單長衣, 勿擧行 / 국사편찬위원회 편, PDF파일
5. [기타자료] - / 1505 / 朝鮮王朝實錄燕山君日記, 燕山58卷, 11年6月13日(병인) 3번째 기 사; 自是紗羅綾叚, 其價湧貴, 朝士家貧不能貿者, 則以 女服造團領, 朝賀、朝參時, 太半皆是女圓衫 / 국사편찬위원회 편, PDF파일
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UCI(KEPA) : I410-ECN-0101-2017-381-000745052