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자료유형
학술저널
저자정보
저널정보
한국복식학회 복식 복식 제50권 제1호
발행연도
2000.1
수록면
97 - 117 (21page)

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초록· 키워드

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The purposes of the present research were (1) to investigate the sociological factors influencing the increase of ambivalence and the relationship between the ambivalence and fashion change, (2) to categorize sets of the ambivalence expressed for contemporary fashion, and (3) to examine the frequency and the patterns of ambivalence presented for contemporary fashion. This research was conducted through in depth literature review and content analysis. Data was collected from 806 colored pictures presented on `Collections` from 1972 to 1998. Eight types of clothing cues were included: look, color, texture, decorative motifs of clothing, collar, sleeve, and wearer`s headdress/hair style and make-up. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The popularization of culture has been accelerated by mass production, mass consumption and mass media. Since the 1980s, postmodernism and poststructuralism have resulted in the breakdown of dualistic distinction. As the ambiguity of meaning in appearance increases, the meaning is negotiated constantly for identity. 2. The most frequently expressed ambivalence in clothing was feminity/masculinity and tradition/modernity, and wealth/poverty was the least. The number of ambivalent expression were the highest during 1990s. The rapid growth in ambivalence of tradition/modernity was found in 1970s, feminity/ masculinity in 1980s, and modesty/immodesty in 1990s. Within a clothing style, ambivalence was manifested through feminine look in white for beauty/ugliness, feminine look mainly in yellow/red for wealth/ poverty, sexy look dominantly in black for modesty/immodesty, androgynous look in black for feminity/ masculinity, and through ecology look most frequently in black for tradition/modernity.

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UCI(KEPA) : I410-ECN-0101-2017-381-000760831