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학제간연구 과학기술학 뇌인지과학 기술정책 기타 복합학

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논문 기본 정보

자료유형
학술저널
저자정보
저널정보
한국복식학회 복식 복식 제37권
발행연도
1998.3
수록면
253 - 273 (21page)

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초록· 키워드

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The culture reflects the ideology of a particular period in time and such values change according to the needs and requests of that time which eventually becomes an important factorin forming the exterior. The clothing is part of a way that composes and expresses the inherent substance of society and culture. Also, the clothing itslef manifests the artistic values and behavior of mankind as an external structure maintaining its place as a big part in culture. The purpose of this study are to elucidat the concept of naturalism, which is discussed in many facets in the modern era ; I studied the concept as well as the history of naturalism in order to manifest the meaning of clothing in the context of culture and I explained the concept in terms of the modern era. On such ground, I explained the naturalism expressed through clothing and characterized the external form of clothing. Also, in order to know the stream of naturalism in the modern context, I referred to the Vogue magazine of the 90s, using Delong`s ABC method. Naturalism, in the context of modern fashion is a way to express the nostalgia of nature`s viability and purity of ecology apart from the artificial and structural appearance that resulted form scientific enhancement and hence, the ecological crisis. Naturalism pursues the softness and comfort of the natural silhouette, color and material of the human body and it can be said that naturalism emphasizes the mixture of three substances ; human, nature and clothing. The naturalism can be characterized by the factors expressed in clothing as follows. Fisrst, the naturalism shown in the form itself draws the beauty of the bodyline without any reduction nor exaggeration. Without any distorttion of the human bodyline it shows the curve as one moves along, using the soft material. Second, the naturalism shown in color mostly uses the natural tone with added white color and other colors low in intensity and value like the receded colors of the earth that could be compared to the beauty of ecru. Third, the naturalism shown in the material is thin, light na soft in texture. In order to bring out the most natural curve of the human body, the natural fiber becomes the main material, sometimes, using crude materials. Due to the lindustrial improvement, softness and elasticity is added to the natural fibers giving them an important role as materials. Fourth, the naturalism shown in textile depicts the real natural objects in life. According to my study, the personality of naturalism in modern clothing was shown to be most strong in material and then in the order of form, texture and textile. The material composed of the natural silhouette and natural fibers were use to make soft color. In form Paul Poiret made appearance expressing the natural beauty of the human body without the corset; it continued with the inner lining makeing the clothing hard but in the 90s, lining-less, extremely exposed clothes and knit wear is used to emphasize this natural beauty of the body. In color and textile, the tendency spoken above is not as strong but in colr, instead of high intensity or value, the usage of neutral colors with added white color or ecru color, earth tone is increasing. In textile, the usage of flowers as natural material is seen frequently. As a whole, naturalistic trend in the 90s is increasing and the modern fashion is breaking out from the artificial and architectural from and conforming to a form that can realize the natural beauty of the human body. And the natural color and textile that conforms to such ideas are being used to pursue the human oriented trend that has appeared due to the increase in usage of soft natural fiber. Nowadays, the idea of returning to nature, defying the aritficiality, desiring the leisure and psychological abundance that can be explained as naturalistic way of thinking is necessitated in this modern era as long as humans coexist with nature, this tendency will continue in clothing.

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