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학제간연구 과학기술학 뇌인지과학 기술정책 기타 복합학

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논문 기본 정보

자료유형
학술저널
저자정보
저널정보
한국복식학회 복식 복식 제32권
발행연도
1997.5
수록면
293 - 312 (20page)

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초록· 키워드

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Deconstructionism is a philosophical stream in the latter half of 20`th century which goes against western metaphysics, and tries to deconstruct the dualism, e.g., eastern / western. man / woman. Its main concepts are `individual`. `other`, `differnce`, `restoration of the repressed`, `decentralization`. Today, it shows stron influences in literature, art, and other social fields. This study investigated inner meanings and exterior forms represented in clothing on the base of Jacques Derrida`s theory in order to research modes of deconstruction in it. And it compared clothing with architecture among other genres of art in order to discover similarities between thought and modes of art in a certain period. For illuminationconcept of deconstruction, I referred to the literatures of preceding studies, and for deconstruction`s characteristics in both clothing and architecture, I referred work`s collection book, 「collections」, and other related books dealing from 1960`s to this point. As a result, there are four modes of deconstruction in both clothing and architecture as follows ; 1) Diffe´rance, which is a concept of the difference in time and space as being trace. 2) Intermeaning of meanings, which is no present in reality, but re-interpreted a new in the future. 3) Intertextuality, in which a texte is not alone, but with others. 4) Dis·De phenomenon, in which distortion and fragmentation forms occur as the result of the denial of perfection and reason. There are characteristics of modes of dcconstruction in clothing as follows ; 1) Diffe´rance ; R.Gigli. P.Rabanne, G.Versace, V. Westwood are representatives of the clothing which is combined with the past, the present, and the future, or is re-viewed as the clothing of the past in the present point of view, J. Watanabe, R.Kawakubo, I. Miyake are representatives of the clothing which is out dated, but re-viewed in the sense of recollection and re-usage. 2) Intermeaning of meanings : R.Kawakubo, I.Miyake, Y.Yamamoto are representatives of the clothing which is incomplete, but re-interpreted in the future. and appears to be nwe-fashioned according to ways of binding, wearing, throwing on, and tying. J.C.Castelbajac, K.Hamnett, S.Sprouse are representatives of the clothing which is made up of abstract forms, scribbling or symbolic letters which appears to be different according to view-point of observers. 3) Intertextuality ; J.P.Gaultier, K.Hamnett, Comme des Gar ons are representatives of intertextuality of gender which avoids the duality of man / woman. J.P. Gaultier, G.Versace, J.Galliano are representatives of the intertextuality of time, place, and occasion which mixes temporality, extensity, and purposiveness. J.P.Gaultier, G.Versace are representatives of the intertextuality of coordination which combines items different in image, purpose, and use. P.Rabanne, A.Courr ges, R.Gernreich, I.Miyake are representatives of the intertextuality of matter which uses heterogeneous matter different from cloth. 4) Dis·De·phenomenon : R.Kawakubo, I.Miyake, J.P.Gaultier are representatives of the decomposition which discloses distortion and exaggeration of form throuth destructing the established way of construction. J. Galliano, R.Kawakubo. Devota Y Lomba are representatives of the decentring which restores the repressed and the alienated on the on hand, and shows front-centrality on the other. Comme des Gar ons is representative of the discontinuity because of which right and left, up and down are not in harmony with one another. J. Galliano, J.P.Gaultier, T.Mugler are representatives of the disruption by way of which one makes one`s body exposed through intentional slashes or holes. As a consequence, deconstructionism enabled us to investigate similarities between thought of deconstruction and modes of art in terms of differance. Intermeaning of meanings, intertextuality, and Dis. De-phenomenon. And we found that deconstruction was a phase of development in that it, as a all-comprising and multiple concept, tries to pursue the new through deconstruction.

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